Restoring a 1951 Kenwood “Chef” Electric Food Mixer – Part 3

12 thoughts on “Restoring a 1951 Kenwood “Chef” Electric Food Mixer – Part 3”

    1. Thanks. It was a very enjoyable project (except for cleaning all that grease out!). I highly recommend restoring one for yourself.

  1. Hi – Thoroughly enjoyed your article!
    I “repaired” my A700D chef about 13 years ago (yellow) and it has been a pleasure to use but it’s looking tired and original. I normally like that old patina and I’m a stickler for originality but being a kitchen appliance I was seriously considering a full restoration as you have done but i found 2nd A700D (black) which won’t work at all. I think i’ll restore the black one and leave my “daily ride” alone for now. like you, I also have an A200 Kenwood, but this is in amazing condition and just sits on top of the 1932 Westinghouse refrigerator as a display. The number of attachments for these old things is amazing! I’m interested to know if the motor rebuild improved the noise levels?

    1. Hi,

      Nice to hear from another A200 owner! Your black 700D will no doubt look amazing restored back to factory new. You’re right not to bother with paint restoration if you’re using it as a daily mixer though. Too much pain when the bowl puts chips in the pristine finish. My aim is also to restore a coloured 700D when I can find one with all its bits – not so easy!

      I can’t comment on motor noise, as the mixer was not working when I got it.

  2. Vintage mixers and more on Facebook shows how to powder coat mixers. I have an a200 which I have next to a sunbeam 3a .the kenwood looks like the sunbeam on steroids.I also have 2 a700a,a a700b and a d. Enjoyed your articles and will use many of the tips.thanks.

      1. We have way too many mixers ,sunbeams from 1932 to 1965, kenwoods from the a200 to 707a plus a few westing houses and a vintage cm8 hobart for bread making. My husband has restored most of them but not the 700d or a200. The a200 works fine but he would like to restore it particularly after finding an original bowl in a junk shop in brisbane. We would appreciate it if you tell us if there is any difficulties fixing this model up .

      2. Sorry for the slow reply, I don’t check this blog as often as I should. The original A200 bowl came with our mixer, but the person who sent it didn’t pack it well and it turned up with a big crack in it! Let me know if you come across any more in junk shops! Anyway, restoring the A200 is straightforward, but one thing, assuming the wiring is in the same condition as ours I strongly suggest that you don’t use it. When I opened it up, the insulation on the wires to the transformer had become brittle (possibly cooked) and cracked away leaving bare wire exposed! The gearbox is like the mixmasters, but the speed control is far cruder, being a simple tapped transformer jammed into the rear section. There are a couple of capacitors that will need replacing, along with the (many) wires, and that’s it. The rest is the usual cosmetic stuff.

  3. Great detailed blog, bookmarking now as I’ve just bought an A700 (B) serial number 35599 (with speed dial goes to 16, “Kenwood” decal, and knurled knob) – sadly missing its front port cover and most importantly its planetary hub nut and washer, but with working motor and gears (from a quick test).
    Could you possibly post some photos of this nut – on later models it is a capnut, but I’ve not yet found any pictures of the A700 version. The little hints I’ve found suggest it may simply be a plain locking nut on this model.

    1. Wow! That’s the earliest A700 I’ve heard of. That could be from the first production run, probably made in early 1950. My 1949 A200 is serial number 30117. You have a machine that is certainly worth finding missing parts for and restoring. The planetary nut changes to a much “cheaper” looking aluminium version on the A700D model. The A700A has a nice chromed nut (you can see it in my blog header image). This nut is rarely missing, so you might have to see if you can find a cheap A700A or B model to scavenge for parts (might be useful for other bits that need replacing too, such as worn shims in the gear train). The front black cover is often missing. If you can find another A or B with that as well then great. An alternative would be to buy one of the re-manufactured ones from ebay. I have a few left-over “Kenwood” replacement decals if you would like one.

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